Guided Climb Mount Baker
Embark on an unforgettable 3-day or 4-day guided climb of Mount Baker with American Mountain School, depending on your mountaineering experience. Located in the stunning North Cascades of Washington, Mount Baker stands at 10,781 feet and is one of the most iconic peaks in the Pacific Northwest. Our trips combine a guided climb with an Intro to Mountaineering course or knowledge refreshment perfect for both beginners and seasoned adventurers. Our expert guides will ensure a safe and exhilarating adventure. Join us for a guided climb of Mount Baker and experience the thrill of summiting this majestic peak.
Why Choose American Mountain School for Your Mount Baker Climb?
Experienced Guides: Our team of certified guides brings years of mountaineering experience to ensure your safety and enjoyment.
Comprehensive Training: Our 3-day trip includes a brushing up on basic mountaineering knowledge. Our 4-day trip includes a thorough Intro to Mountaineering course covering essential skills and techniques.
Small Group Sizes: Enjoy personalized attention and a more intimate climbing experience.
Spectacular Scenery: Witness breathtaking views of the North Cascades, alpine meadows, and glaciers.
Overview of Mount Baker
Mount Baker, also known as Koma Kulshan or simply “Baker” by locals, is a majestic peak located in the North Cascades of Washington State, USA. Rising to an elevation of 10,781 feet (3,286 meters), Mount Baker is the third-highest mountain in the state and one of the most prominent features of the region’s skyline.
Situated within the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, this iconic stratovolcano is renowned for its breathtaking beauty, challenging terrain, and rich mountaineering history. Its rugged slopes, crowned by glaciers and snowfields, attract climbers, hikers, and outdoor enthusiasts from around the world.
Mount Baker holds cultural significance for indigenous peoples, including the Lummi Nation, who consider it a sacred site. The mountain’s name, Koma Kulshan, means “white sentinel” or “great white watcher” in the language of the indigenous Lushootseed people.
As part of the Cascade Range volcanic arc, Mount Baker is an active volcano with a complex geologic history. It last erupted in 1843, and its volcanic activity poses potential hazards to surrounding areas.
Despite its challenges, Mount Baker offers visitors unparalleled opportunities for exploration, adventure, and connection with nature. From its pristine alpine meadows to its rugged summit, this iconic peak continues to inspire awe and wonder in all who behold it.
Guided Ascent Adventures in the North Cascades
Our 3-day trip at Mount Baker ideal for participants in excellent physical condition with previous mountaineering experience.
To ensure the best possible outcome for your climb, American Mountain School will select one of two primary routes on Mount Baker based on current mountain conditions. We may choose the Coleman Deming Route on the north side or the Easton Glacier Route on the southern flanks. Both routes offer similar length, elevation gain, and difficulty, serving as excellent training grounds for roped glacier travel and essential mountaineering skills. Our experienced guides will provide you with the knowledge and techniques needed for a safe and successful climb.
Day 1: Approach and Training
Morning:
Meet at designated meeting point for gear check and introductions.
Begin hike to basecamp, considering the route chosen ( Easton Glacier, Coleman Deming ).
Afternoon:
Arrive at basecamp area.
After setting up a solid mountain camp, we spend the remaining afternoon hours brushing up on basic mountaineering skills:
- Review of mountaineering equipment usage (crampons, ice axes, ropes, harnesses, etc.).
- Techniques for glacier roped team
- Self-arrest techniques
- Briefing by guides on safety protocols, route specifics.
Rest and hydration in preparation for the next day ascent.
Day 2: Summit Day
Morning:
Early Morning:
Alpine start to maximize summit window, usually beginning in the early hours (around midnight to 2 AM).
Rope up in teams and begin ascent towards the summit, following the chosen route.
Morning to Midday:
Continue ascending, navigating glacier features, and negotiating any technical sections specific to the chosen route.
Reach the summit and celebrate the achievement (timings can vary based on route conditions and group pace).
Descent back to the Base camp.
Afternoon:
Enjoy stunning panoramic views and rest in the Base Camp
Day 3: Descent
Morning:
Breakfast.
Begin descent back to the parking lot or designated endpoint, completing the expedition.
This itinerary provides a general outline for a 3-day Mount Baker climb via different routes for those who have the basic knowledge in mountaineering, focusing on acclimatization, brushing up on skills, summit attempts, and a safe return. Specific timings, route conditions, and itinerary adjustments may vary based on group abilities, weather conditions, and guide recommendations. Adjustments are common in mountaineering expeditions to ensure safety and adapt to changing circumstances on the mountain.
Our 4-day Intro To Mountaineering Course at Mount Baker combines summit climbing with the opportunity to learn basic mountaineering skills for a safe and successful guided ascent of glacial terrain.
To ensure the best possible outcome for your climb, American Mountain School will select one of two primary routes on Mount Baker based on current mountain conditions. We may choose the Coleman Deming Route on the north side or the Easton Glacier Route on the southern flanks. Both routes offer similar length, elevation gain, and difficulty, serving as excellent training grounds for roped glacier travel and essential mountaineering skills. Our experienced guides will provide you with the knowledge and techniques needed for a safe and successful climb.
Day 1: Approach and Training
Morning:
Meet at designated meeting point for gear check and introductions. Carpool to the park.
Begin hike to basecamp, considering the route chosen ( Easton Glacier, Coleman Deming ).
Afternoon:
Arrive at basecamp area.
Setting up a solid mountain camp, we spend the remaining afternoon hours discussing basic mountaineering skills:
- Review of mountaineering equipment usage (crampons, ice axes, ropes, harnesses, etc.).
- Briefing by guides on safety protocols, route specifics.
Rest and hydration in preparation for the next day’s activities.
Day 2: Training day
Curriculum for the day:
- Techniques for glacier roped team
- Self-arrest techniques
- Crevasse rescue practice
- Navigation techniques
- Snow anchors techniques
Day 3: Summit Day
Morning:
Early Morning:
Alpine start to maximize summit window, usually beginning in the early hours (around midnight to 2 AM).
Rope up in teams and begin ascent towards the summit, following the chosen route.
Morning to Midday:
Continue ascending, navigating glacier features, and negotiating any technical sections specific to the chosen route.
Reach the summit and celebrate the achievement (timings can vary based on route conditions and group pace).
Descent back to the Base camp.
Afternoon:
- Enjoy stunning panoramic views and rest in the Base Camp
Day 4: Descent
Morning:
Breakfast.
Begin descent back to the parking lot or designated endpoint, completing the expedition.
This itinerary provides a general outline for a 4-day Mount Baker climb via different routes for those who new to mountaineering, focusing on acclimatization, skill-building, summit attempts, and a safe return. Specific timings, route conditions, and itinerary adjustments may vary based on group abilities, weather conditions, and guide recommendations. Adjustments are common in mountaineering expeditions to ensure safety and adapt to changing circumstances on the mountain.
We will climb Mount Baker on one of the following route: Easton Glacier route or Coleman Deming route depending on current conditions
Easton Glacier Route:
- Parking Area: Park at Park Butte Trailhead (3,360 ft) accessed via Forest Road 13. This trailhead leads to the Railroad Grade
Trail. - Trail: Follow the Park Butte Trail then join the Railroad Grade Trail to gain access to the Easton Glacier.
- Campgrounds: No designated campgrounds. Camping is often done at the Lower or Upper Railroad Camps 5600ff or 6300 ft.
- Features: The Easton Glacier route offers expansive views of the Easton Glacier and surrounding peaks. No permanent huts
are available on this route.
Coleman Deming Route:
- Parking Area: Park at the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead.
- Trail: Follow the Heliotrope Ridge Trail to access the Coleman Glacier and the Coleman Deming.
- Campgrounds: No established campgrounds. Campsites are typically set up on the glacier or at suitable locations between
4700ft and 5900ft feet or the sites along the edge of the Coleman Glacier on 6000ft-6200ft. - Features: This route traverses Heliotrope Ridge and leads to the challenging and steep Coleman Headwall. There are no
permanent huts along this route.
INCLUDES:
GROUP GEAR such us rope, slings, ice & rock protection, cooking stove and pots, etc.
PERSONAL GEAR (IF YOU DO NOT HAVE YOUR OWN ONE):
- Large pear shaped munter-style locking carabiner – 2 pcs
- Non-locking gate carabiner – 2 pcs
- Prusik (Sterling HollowBlock2, 13.5″)
- Sling 48″ (120 cm) nylon or dineema
- Ice screw – 1 pcs
- Climbing helmet
- Alpine climbing harness
- Mountaineering crampons
- Mountaineering ice axe
EXCLUDES:
PERSONAL GEAR:
- Hiking backpack 75 ltr
- Summit backpack 22-28 ltr
- Trekking poles
SLEEPING GEAR:
- Light weight private tent (recommended)
- Sleeping bag (10 degree F)
- Closed cell sleeping pad
- Inflatable sleeping pad
- Ear plugs
- Eye shades
- Pillow (Thermorest)
EATING/DRINKING:
- 1 liter Nalgene bottle
- Camping mug light
- Titanium spork or just spoon
- Thermos
- Bowl and cup
- Hydration bladder 1.0
- Water filter
FOOD & SNACK FOR 3 DAYS:
- Dehydrated dinners (2x)
- Dehydrated breakfast (2x)
- Hydration mix
- Snacks
- Generally 3000 – 3500 calories per day
FOOD & SNACK FOR 4 DAYS:
- Dehydrated dinners (3x)
- Dehydrated breakfast (3x)
- Hydration mix
- Snacks
- Generally 3000 – 3500 calories per day
ESSENTIALS:
- Sunscreen (high SPF)
- Lip balm (with SPF)
- Headlamp with good batteries
- Knife (small)Lighter/matches (small)
- Garmin InReach Mini (optional)
- Medical Kit
- Glacier sunglasses (Category 4)
- Sunglasses
- Goggles
- Prescription glasses
- Contact lenses
- Wrist watch
- Smart phone w/charging cable
- Extra battery/power source
- Download Gaia or Caltopo or both
CLOTHING:
- Technical boots single or double fit for crampon
- Underwear (2x)
- Socks (3x) / (4x) depending on the trip
- Long underwear, light (1x)
- Long underwear, mid (1x)
- Mid layer fleece with hood (1x)
- T-Shirt (1-2x)
- Sun hoodie (1x)
- horts (1x) optional
- Alpine climbing pant (1x)
- Rain/Gore Tex shell pant (1x)
- Down/Synthetic pant (1x)
- Down parka with baffled hood (1x)
- Rain/Gore Tex shell jacket (1x)
- Winter hat (1x)
- Ball cap (1x)
- Light gloves (1x)
- Heavy gloves (1x)
- Mittens (1x)
- Buff (1x)
FOOTWEAR:
- Technical boots single or double fit for crampon
- Trail runners
TOILETRY:
- Toothbrush
- Toothpaste (small)
- Dental floss/picks
- Soap (small)
- Pack towel
- Vitamins
- Hand sanitizer
- Toilet paper
- Wag Bags (3x) / (4x) depending on the trip
- Feminine products
PRICE INCLUDES
- Climb itinerary
- Guide fees
- Group equipment such as rope, snow packs, ice screws, etc.
- Personal gear (see gear list)
- Human waste disposal bags
- Group First Aid Kit
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
- Food during trip
- Transportation to and from the meeting point
- Personal gear (see gear list)
- Park fee (if any)
- Trip cancellation insurance
- Rescue Insurance
- Gratuity
- Expenses due to unforeseen circumstances beyond the control of American Mountain School
Ii you have any additional questions before booking this trip text us via our contact form.
